My boyfriend and I are sitting at a table at a Korean barbecue joint in Ttukdo Market, in the Seongsu neighbourhood of Seoul, along with SunHee Choi’s husband, Bonhak Koo (본학 구), and their friend KyungHan Jung (경한 정). “We were intrigued,” I reply. “And the culinary and cultural appeal easily makes South Korea worth the journey.” As we chat, KyungHan focuses on preparing us all somaek: a popular cocktail made of artisanal soju and maekju (beer). We pull up a few chairs as more new friends join us.

Impromptu dinners like these are not unusual in South Korea, where such gatherings are woven into everyday life. Evenings are often spent with friends, acquaintances, or colleagues around a large table loaded up with dishes for sharing—including plentiful banchan, the signature small sides of Korean cuisine—and beer. When you finally leave in the wee hours, it’s with hearts as full as your bellies. This food journal is a collection of must-try dishes, ranging from the familiar classics to unexpected delights, gathered over the course of a journey that took us through Seoul, Jeonju, Yeosu, Tongyeong, Busan, and Jeju. While we covered only a fraction of the country, our taste buds would never know it.

SEOUL

The South Korean capital is bursting with lively markets, a thriving food scene, and distinctive neighbourhoods with their own unique flavours. Off the tourist trail, the locally beloved Mangwon Market is the perfect place to sample local specialties: eeomuk-guk (fish cakes served in a rich anchovy broth), myeolchi bokkeum (a classic banchan of stir-fried anchovies in a sweet, salty sauce), tteokbokki (chewy rice cakes drenched in a velvety spicy sauce), and gimmari (deep-fried seaweed rolls stuffed with glass noodles—dip them in tteokbokki sauce for an extra bit of kick). Traditional hanok villages, located within the city limits, offer a glimpse into another era. Eunpyeong Hanok village, located at the foot of Bukhansan Mountain on the outskirts of Seoul, is worth making the trip out to see.

SEOCHON VILLAGE—Traditional architecture mixes with modernity in this hanok neighbourhood dotted with many new wave restaurants and cafés.

@SANSOL_SEOUL—A bar with a wide selection of makgeolli (a milky, lightly sparkling rice wine) as well as beautifully prepared Korean dishes like yukhoe (thinly sliced raw beef seasoned with soy sauce, sesame, and garlic, served over Korean pear).

EUNPYEONG—A traditional hanok village set against the backdrop of Bukhansan National Park, perfect for taking in the mountainous landscape.

TTUKDO MARKET—Sharing Korean barbecue with 선희 최 SunHee Choi, 본학 구 Bonhak Koo, and 경한 정 KyungHan Jung.

Somaek—A blend of soju and maekju (beer), the classic Korean combo.

TEMPLE JINGWANSA—Onggi, large earthenware vessels used in traditional Korean fermentation, line one of the temple’s courtyards.

@PARCSEOUL—Located in the neighbourhood of Hannam, this restaurant pays tribute to chef Pak Mogua’s mother through every dish. Parc serves seasonal cuisine inspired by family recipes, offering a modern take on tradition. The project grew out of a desire to re-create the warmth of a family meal in a simple, welcoming space that makes everyone feel at home.

@KOMFORTABELCOFFEE—A specialty coffee shop offering a stunning view of Seoul.

@CHUNGRYU_EP—This restaurant serves excellent naengmyeon, a traditional North Korean dish of handmade noodles in a chilled broth, perfect for hot summer days.

EULJIRO NOGARI ALLEY—An iconic alley in Seoul lined with small, makeshift eateries known for serving nogari.

NORAGI—A grilled snack of dried young pollock for which the alley is named.

MANGWON MARKET—Located in the Mapo-gu district, this lively market is a haven for food lovers, brimming with local specialties to discover.

MANGWON MARKET—An assortment of banchan.

Tteokbokki—These cylindrical rice cakes are served in a spicy sauce, pictured here alongside eomuk-guk, fish cakes in broth.

NAMDAEMUN VEGETABLE HOTTEOK—Hotteok, golden, chewy pancakes filled with brown sugar, cinnamon, and sometimes nuts are a beloved Korean street snack.

NAMDAEMUN MARKET—Some vendors, like this one in Namdaemun Market, offer a savory twist filled with japchae (stir-fried sweet potato noodles and vegetables), well worth the wait.

JINMI PYONGYANG NAENGMYEON—An institution in the Gangnam district, known for its authentic Pyeongyang-style naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles originating from North Korea).

Pyeongyang-style naengmyeon

BUKCHEON—A spot for donkkaseu (breaded and deep-fried pork cutlets) located near Baekbin’s railway crossing, one of the last few level crossings still in operation in Seoul.

Baekbin railway crossing

밀양손만두—A restaurant specializing in mandu (generous Korean dumplings) and kalguksu (a noodle soup made with hand-rolled, knife-cut noodles — hence its name, "knife-cut noodles").

YONGSAN DISTRICT—A thriving neighborhood filled with new-wave cafés and restaurants.

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JEONJU

Designated by UNESCO as a City of Gastronomy, Jeonju has a rich culinary history and is the birthplace of Korea’s best-known dish, bibimbap. Its hanok village is home to over 800 traditional houses, making it one of the largest in the country. Meat lovers are advised to enjoy a meal at Jo Jeom Rye Nammun Pisundae restaurant in Nambu Market, which specializes in soondae, a delicious Korean blood sausage made by stuffing sweet potato noodles and pig or cow blood into intestinal casings. Enjoy it on its own or as ssam—wrapped in perilla leaves and topped with garlic, gochujang, and onions.

HANOK VILLAGE—These houses were arranged according to the principles of pungsu-jiri , a Korean form of geomancy that seeks harmony with nature.

JO JEOM RYE NAMMUN PISUNDAE—A restaurant in Nambu Market specializing in soondae, Korean blood sausage.

Gyeongdan—A traditional Korean confection made from glutinous rice, filled with red bean paste and rolled in colorful powders.

GRANDMA’S BEST—Nestled in the heart of a hanok village, this café offers a wide variety of bingsu, a shaved ice dessert often topped with sweet red beans.

HANBYEOGJIB—A riverside restaurant in Jeonju famous for its maeuntang, a spicy fish soup served piping hot.

MAEUNTANG—Spicy fish soup, served piping hot.

한국관 본점—For a traditional bibimbap.

COSMOS APT—A specialty café located near Nambu Market.

VETERAN KALGUKSU—A restaurant specializing in traditional dishes, especially kalguksu.

YEOSU

A port city in the south, Yeosu includes over 300 small islands in addition to its mainland centre. Naturally, fish and seafood take pride of place on the city’s menus. One local specialty is gejang, fresh crab marinated in either a soy sauce mixture (ganjang gejang) or a spicy, gochugaru-based seasoning (yangnyeom gejang). The dish is affectionately called the “rice thief” for the way its intense flavours have diners refilling their bowls again and again. Golmogjib, a tucked-away restaurant with an extensive menu, does this regional treat justice. Off the coast of Yeosu, Dolsando Island is famous for its oysters, with many restaurants letting you grill them yourself on the barbecue—an especially enjoyable experience in winter.

GYODONG MARKET—A popular evening spot for locals, this bustling market is filled with food stalls.

One of its specialties is samhap : a bold trio of fermented skate (hongeo), steamed pork belly, and well-aged kimchi. In Yeosu, it’s often served with octopus or abalone.

CAFE PLUM—Nestled in southern Dolsando, this artisanal café combines breathtaking views in a peaceful setting

GOLMOGJIB—A hidden gem known for its hearty take on the regional specialty,gejang.

PARC DOLSAN—Panoramic viewpoint overlooking the harbor where crabs are caught.

향일암 쉼터—A restaurant located near Hyangiram, a historic Buddhist hermitage, serving simple and flavorful dishes.

TONGYEONG

When travelling between Yeosu and Busan, plan on making a stop in Tongyeong. Nicknamed the “Naples of Korea” for good reason, the coastal city shares much with its Italian counterpart, from its bustling port to vibrant cultural life. Just outside Jungang Market, you’ll find stalls selling hotteok, one of the most popular sweet street snacks in the country, and kkulppang, small fried balls of dough stuffed with red bean paste that come coated with honey and grilled sesame seeds. These treats taste even better when you take them down to Gangguan Port to savour them along the water.

JUNGANG MARKET—A small, lively market in the centre of Tongyeong, offering seasonal produce and local treats to nibble on as you wander.

JUNGANG MARKET—A vendor prepares hotteok, pancakes made from yeast dough that are one of the most popular street snacks in Korea.

Hotteok, iconic Korean sweet street snack..

Produce vendor at Jungang Market.

Kkulppang—Enjoyed fresh at the Gangguan port.

Scenic view over Gangguan Port.

BUSAN

South Korea’s second-largest city, Busan offers a distinctly maritime atmosphere and a more laid-back feel than the capital. Third-wave cafés and seafood restaurants abound, as well as excellent Japanese spots, due to its proximity to the Land of the Rising Sun. Pocha are particularly popular with locals. Short for pojangmacha (which translates literally to “covered wagon”), pocha are small, unfussy street stalls that typically serve simple dishes accompanied by a good soju or a cold beer, a classic pairing in the region.

@TIDE_COFFEE_ROASTERS—This tucked-away café with stunning views of the sea and city is known for its pour-over coffees.

MARCHÉ JAGALCHI—One of Korea’s oldest and most iconic fish markets.

HAEUNDAE GUI—A waterfront restaurant in the Cheongsapo district where you grill your own seafood.

BIFF SQUARE, NAMPODONG—A landmark street for the Busan International Film Festival, filled with pocha.

Shrimp and cold beer, at the counter of a pojangmacha in Busan.

GAMCHEON CULTURE VILLAGE—An iconic neighborhood in Busan, known for its colorful houses cascading down the hillside.

BUPYEONG JOKBAL—A well-known spot for jokbal, braised pig’s feet simmered in spices for rich flavor.

The cold version, naengchae jokbal, is served with fresh vegetables and a punchy mustard-based sauce.

@SIM.MI.AN—A tearoom serving bingsu, a shaved ice dessert often topped with sweet red beans.